Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
