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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.